Back in February of 1999 I went to Laos, as part of my 18 month backpacking tour of Australia and South-East Asia. Its borders had not been opened long and it was necessary to check in and out of each new village that we visited, via a designated passport office. The practice seemed ridiculously antiquated afterour trips to Thailand, where tourism was rife, as was the cynicism overpeople’s motives for befriending us.
Our Thai trip had taught us to question people’s motives when they approached us, wanting to be our friends. So, my friend, Brian, and I were a little cautious when we crossed the border, over the Mekong river, from Thailand to Laos.
We did little on our first day at the other side of the border and checked...